Your New Kitten
Your New Kitten
Welcome to Layton Animal Hospital
Welcome to our hospital! Whether you’re new to owning a pet or added a new addition to your family we are extremely excited to take this journey with you!
Our goal is to provide the very best veterinary care possible for your pet and establish a trusting relationship with our clients. We understand how much your pet means to you and your family, and like you....we feel the same way about our own! We treat each patient as though they are part of our family. To get you started on your journey with your new puppy, we have put together some educational handouts that we thought you’d find useful. If you have any questions please visit our website or call our office. Congrats on the new addition!
| Day of the Week | Our Office Hours | Our Appointment Hours |
|---|---|---|
| Monday | 8:00am - 7:00pm | 8:30am - 12:00pm / 2:00pm - 7:00pm |
| Tuesday - Friday | 8:00am - 5:30pm | 8:30am - 12:00pm / 2:00pm - 5:30pm |
| Saturday | 8:00am - 12:30pm | 8:30am - 12:30pm |
| Sunday | CLOSED | CLOSED |
Our Saturday and evening hours are very popular and fill up fast. It is a good idea to make appointments for routine care well in advance for those times.
Patients are seen by appointment. If you prefer to see a particular Veterinarian, please let our receptionists know when scheduling your appointment. In case of an emergency the first available doctor will see your pet.
Phone Number: 414-281-8270 - (emergency numbers also available on our voicemail)
Fax Number: 414-281-8494
Email: MyPetsVet@LaytonAnimalHospital.com
Website: www.laytonanimalhospital.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/LAHCARES
In case of an after hours emergency please visit:
Lakeshore Veterinary Specialists:
9472 South 27th Street
Oak Creek, WI 53154
PH: 414-761-6333
www.lakeshorevetspecialists.com
VCA Milwaukee Emergency Center for Animal
3670 S. 108th St.
Greenfield, WI 53228
PH: 414-543-7387 (PETS)
- Our receptionists are available at 8:00am to schedule appointments, pick up a prescription, and assist with questions or concerns.
- Our doctors arrive at 8:30am to begin seeing their daily appointments.
- If your pet is staying with us for a hospitalized procedure, a doctor will meet with you between the check-in time of 8:30am-9:00am. Expect to be here about 10-15 minutes to allow time to meet with the doctor and sign the necessary forms.
- Our doctors are out of the office between the hours of 12:00pm-2:00pm, however, our receptions are still available to schedule appointments, pick up a prescription, and assist with questions or concerns.
- Doctors return phone messages throughout the day. They may not be able to return your call in 15 minutes (unless it is an emergency), but we assure you that your call is important.
- NO medications will be filled without doctor approval. Please phone in prescription requests prior to picking up. This way, if you need to pick up when a doctor is not available, you are able to do so. NO exceptions will be made, an approval is required.
- By law we are required to have a patient/doctor relationship BEFORE prescribing any medications. In order to obtain a medication, the pet would have had to have been seen for the medical issue first.
- Payment is due at the time the services are rendered. We do not offer payment plans. We do accept Care Credit and recommend if you need time to pay for a service, you apply for a Care Credit card. They have a wonderful low/no interest deferral program that helps with situations.
- Payment options are as follows (NO personal checks, money orders, or American Express):
- Cash
- MasterCard
- Visa
- Discover
- Care Credit
- Reminder emails and post cards will be sent to you a month before the service is due.
- One of our receptionists will call you the day before your appointment to remind you of your scheduled visit with us.
- We have a great website filled with tons of information regarding our hospital.
- Every client that has an email address on file has access to their very own pet portal! This is a private, secure portal that contains your pet’s personal information such as vaccines and medications. Please take advantage of your free, unlimited access!
- Below is a list of a FEW foods we recommend for dogs and cats. The list is in alphabetical order, and there are many other excellent foods to choose from at your local pet store. Avoid food purchased at grocery stores, larger retailers, and discount stores.
Blue Buffalo Halo California Natural Merrick Earthborn Natural Balance Eukanuba Timberwolf Evo Wellness Fromm’s The above foods are considered low-residue foods. This means that these foods contain less filler than most brands. Therefore, you will need to feed a smaller amount of these foods to your pet (compared to store brands) while still maintaining optimum weight and health. Although these foods appear to be more expensive than grocery store brands, feeding a smaller portion of food results in having to buy food less often, which usually results in no greater expense over time. Ultimately, your pet will be provided with optimum nutrition, which results in better health and longer life. The above brands can be purchased at most major pet retailers. Purchasing your food from a grocery store or large retailer is not recommended.
If your pet needs a special diet for certain conditions (kidney or liver disease, diabetes, allergies, etc…), please see one of our veterinarians for appropriate recommendations.
Example:
TWO 20 pound bags of brand X = 1 month of feeding = $40 dollars
Vs.
ONE 20 pound bag of premium food = 1 month of feeding = $40 dollars = better health
REMEMBER: It is much better to feed your pet a measured amount of food twice daily than to leave the bowl full of food. Your pet’s weight will be properly maintained, keeping your pet healthy. Once this schedule is achieved, it will be very easy to monitor your pet’s food consumption and ultimately, his or her overall health. If you would like a FREE measuring cup for your pet’s diet, please let us know.
What is meant by ovariohysterectomy or spaying?
Spaying is the common term used to describe the surgical procedure known scientifically as an ovariohysterectomy. In this procedure, the ovaries and uterus are completely removed in order to sterilize a female cat.
Why should I have my cat spayed?
We recommend that all non-breeding cats be sterilized. Here are several health benefits associated with spaying your cat. Spaying eliminates the risk of ovarian and uterine cancers. Breast cancer is the number one type of cancer diagnosed in intact or un-spayed female cats. If your cat is spayed before her first heat cycle, there is less than ½ of 1% (0.5%) chance of developing breast cancer. With every subsequent heat cycle, the risk of developing breast cancer increases. After 2½ years of age ovariohysterectomy gives no protective benefit against developing breast cancer. Pets with diabetes or epilepsy should be spayed to prevent hormonal changes that may interfere with medications.
Are there other benefits to spaying my cat?
The most obvious benefit is the prevention of unplanned pregnancies. There is no medical or scientific reason for letting your cat have a litter before she is spayed.
Once a cat reaches puberty, usually at around seven months of age, she will have a heat or estrus cycle every two to three weeks for most of the year, unless she becomes pregnant. She will be “in heat” or receptive to mating for approximately one week in each cycle. During “heat” she may display unsociable behavior such as loud and persistent crying and frequent rubbing and rolling on the floor. This behavior coupled with her scent, will attract male cats from miles around. Removal of the ovaries will stop her estrus cycles.
When should I have my cat spayed?
Spaying should be performed before the first estrus or “heat cycle”. Most cats are spayed between four and six months of age although some veterinarians choose to spay cats at two to three months of age. It is possible to spay your cat if she is pregnant.
What does a spay surgery involve?
This is a major surgical procedure that requires a full general anesthetic. You will need to fast your cat the night prior to surgery. Most cats return home within forty-eight hours after surgery.
The operation is performed through a relatively small incision made most commonly in the midline of the abdomen, just below the umbilicus. Both ovaries are removed along with the entire uterus. The surgical incision will be closed with several layers of sutures. In many cases, skin sutures will be placed, and your veterinarian will instruct you when they can be removed.
Are complications common with spaying?
In general, complications are rare during spaying of cats. However, as with all anesthetic and surgical procedures, there is always a small risk. The potential complications include:
It is possible that any individual animal could have an adverse reaction following the administration of a drug or anesthetic. Such cases are impossible to predict, but are extremely rare. Pre-operative blood work is a useful screening test that may detect pre-existing problems which could interfere with the pet’s ability to handle the anesthetic drugs.
It is important that you properly fast your cat prior to surgery according to your veterinarian’s instructions. In addition, any signs of illness or previous medical conditions should be reported to your veterinarian prior to any sedation, anesthesia or surgery.
This can occur if a ligature around a blood vessel breaks or slips off after the abdomen has been closed. This is very rare, and is more likely to occur if the cat is extremely active. Clinical signs include weakness, pale gums, depression, anorexia or a distended abdomen.
This may occur internally or externally around the incision site. In most cases the infection can be controlled with antibiotics. This most commonly occurs when the cat licks the site excessively or is in a damp environment.
Although extremely rare, occasionally the body will react to certain types of suture material used during surgery. This results in a draining wound or tract that may appear up to several weeks after the surgery was performed. Often a further operation is required to remove the suture material.
In the vast majority of cats, there are absolutely no adverse affects following spaying. In certain cats, notably the Siamese breed, the hair that grows back over an operation site may be noticeably darker, believed to be due to a difference in the skin temperature. This darker patch may grow out with the following molt as the hair is naturally replaced.
There are many myths and rumors that are not supported by facts or research. Be sure to address any questions or concerns you may have with your veterinarian prior to surgery.
Neutering and castration are the common terms used to describe the surgical procedure known scientifically as orchidectomy or orchiectomy. In this procedure, both testicles are removed in order to sterilize a male cat.
Once a male cat reaches puberty, he will develop a number of behavioral changes that will make him a less desirable pet. He will become territorial and start to mark areas, even inside the house, by spraying urine. This urine has a particularly offensive odor that is difficult to remove. As the tomcat reaches sexual maturity, he will start to enlarge his territory, particularly at night.
In most cases, it is recommended to neuter your cat before the onset of puberty. Puberty normally begins between six and eight months of age. We recommend castration at around five to seven months of age, although it is becoming more common to perform this procedure at an earlier age.
Your cat will undergo a general anesthetic.
You will need to withhold food prior to the procedure; your pet should have free access to water during the fasting period. Your veterinarian will advise you how long to withhold food before surgery.
In male cats, both of the testicles are removed through small incisions in the scrotum. Since the incisions are very small, and since stitches may cause irritation of the sensitive skin of the scrotum, it is rare for the incisions to be sutured.
In general, complications are rare during spaying of cats. However, as with all anesthetic and surgical procedures, there is always a small risk. The potential complications include:
- Anesthetic reaction
It is possible that any individual animal could have an adverse reaction following the administration of a drug or anesthetic. Such cases are impossible to predict, but are extremely rare. Pre-operative blood work is a useful screening test that may detect pre-existing problems which could interfere with the pet’s ability to handle the anesthetic drugs.
It is important that you properly fast your cat prior to surgery according to your veterinarian’s instructions. In addition, any signs of illness or previous medical conditions should be reported to your veterinarian prior to any sedation, anesthesia or surgery. - Internal bleeding
This can occur if a ligature around a blood vessel breaks or slips off after the abdomen has been closed. This is very rare, and is more likely to occur if the cat is extremely active. Clinical signs include weakness, pale gums, depression, anorexia or a distended abdomen. - Post-operative infection
This may occur internally or externally around the incision site. In most cases the infection can be controlled with antibiotics. This most commonly occurs when the cat licks the site excessively or is in a damp environment. - Sinus formation or Suture Reaction
Although extremely rare, occasionally the body will react to certain types of suture material used during surgery. This results in a draining wound or tract that may appear up to several weeks after the surgery was performed. Often a further operation is required to remove the suture material.
In the vast majority of cats, no adverse effects are noted following neutering. In certain cats, notably the Siamese breed, the hair that grows back over an operation site may be noticeably darker, believed to be due to a difference in the skin temperature. This darker patch usually grows out with the following molt as the hair is naturally replaced.
Imagine what your teeth would feel like after not brushing them for one week, let alone one year or more. Dental disease is the most common disease of pets today.
- Over 85% of pets over age 4 have some form of dental disease.
- Brushing your pet’s teeth regularly can increase their lifespan by 3 years.
- Dental disease has been directly linked to liver, kidney, and heart disease.
- Dental disease, including gingivitis (inflamed gums) and abscessed or fractured teeth are painful for your pet. Your pet may not show pain until the problem is severe.
- The main cause of halitosis (bad breath) in dogs and cats is dental disease.
We Recommend:
- An oral exam as part of your pet’s yearly physical.
- A diet of kibble along with soft food. Kibble will help clean your pet’s teeth.
- Daily brushing (we can show you how to do this).
- Starting when the doctor recommends, annual dental prophylaxis (teeth cleaning) under general anesthesia. (see risks of anesthesia)
- We offer a variety of CET oral products designed and proven to aid with home dental care and dental health.
Please feel free to ask us what products might be helpful for you and your pet.
Going to the vet repeatedly over several months for vaccinations, and then for boosters or titers throughout your cat’s life, may seem like an inconvenience, but the diseases that vaccinations will shield our pets from are dangerous, potentially deadly, and, thankfully, mostly preventable.
We read about so many different vaccinations, for so many different illnesses, that it can sometimes be confusing to know which vaccinations kittens need and which ones are important but optional. Here is an overview of the diseases that vaccinations will help your pet to avoid.
If you’re planning your kitten’s next vet visit, maybe you’re wondering: What exactly is that FVRCP vaccination kittens need? What does the FVRCP kitten vaccine protect against, and why is it so important? And, why does my kitten need it if they will be indoor only?
FVRCP is a core vaccine. This means veterinarians recommend it for all cats regardless of their lifestyle. The diseases covered by this vaccine are very common, very contagious, and can be very serious or even fatal, especially in young kittens or in cats who are immunocompromised.
But not to worry: Routine vaccination can do a lot to protect your kitty.
FVRCP stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia.
Also known as the feline combo or feline distemper vaccine, the FVRCP vaccine is a combination vaccine, meaning it includes protection against more than one disease (in this case, three common, but potentially serious, airborne viruses).
None of these diseases affect humans, but they are extremely contagious between cats.
1. Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis Virus
Also known as feline herpesvirus type-1 or FHV-1, FVR is an upper respiratory infection. Infected cats may show signs of:
- Red, watery, goopy, or crusty eyes.
- Conjunctivitis (pink eye).
- Ulcers or lesions on the surface of the eyes (usually, you’ll notice your cat squinting).
- Sneezing.
- Nasal discharge.
- A sore throat.
- A fever.
- Lethargy.
- Inappetence (due to not feeling well, difficulty smelling food, nasal congestion, and difficulty swallowing due to a sore throat).
- Less commonly, a cat may develop mouth ulcers and pneumonia.
Severity of symptoms vary from cat to cat. Most cats recover well with treatment, but in severe cases (particularly in kittens) the viral infection can be fatal.
Unfortunately, the respiratory disease is so common and so contagious that most cats are exposed at some point in their life. And, after an infection, the virus remains in a cat’s body in a latent or “dormant” state.
The good news is, cats who carry the virus aren’t sick all the time. Many only have illness flare ups during times of stress, such as when boarding or moving to a new home. On the other hand, some cats battle chronic flare ups their whole life. Certain veterinarian-recommended supplements can help cats with frequent flare-ups.
2. Feline Calicivirus
This virus, also known as FCV, causes symptoms that can be very similar to FVR, as listed above.
But, painful mouth ulcers are much more common with this infectious disease. One clinical sign is drooling.
While much rarer, there is also one strain of calicivirus that causes a severe disease affecting the rest of the body, and is much more likely to be fatal.
3. Feline Panleukopenia Virus
This virus, sometimes called feline distemper, is caused by a virus in the Parvovirus family and usually more of a risk in young kittens than in vaccinated adult cats. It affects blood cells in the intestinal tract, bone marrow, and brain, and is possibly the most dangerous of the viruses covered by FVRCP.
Panleukopenia virus causes:
- Vomiting.
- Diarrhea, which may be severe or contain blood.
- A major decrease in white blood cells, which makes it harder for a kitten’s body to fight the infection.
- A fever.
- Inappetence.
- Lethargy.
- Death.
A kitten sick with panleukopenia virus requires veterinary care right away, as the disease is often fatal.
Panleukopenia can also affect a kitten’s brain development if their mother is infected while pregnant. This results in a condition called cerebellar hypoplasia, which causes tremors and underdeveloped coordination and balance — something that might not be apparent until a kitten first tries to walk. Fortunately, many kittens with cerebellar hypoplasia can lead very happy lives and adapt to perform all the daily activities other cats do. These kittens just need loving homes ready to meet their special needs.
Side effects of the FVRCP vaccination for cats are generally very mild. They may experience slight swelling and soreness near the injection site, develop a low-grade fever, have a decreased appetite, or act a little sluggish.
These signs almost always go away within a few days. If your kitten experiences more severe symptoms, though, contact your vet immediately.
A simple blood test can determine whether your kitten has this virus. This virus is found world-wide and is shed in very high quantities through saliva and nasal secretions. It is also found in urine, feces and milk. Transfer of the virus may occur from a bite wound, as well as shared litter boxes or food dishes. Cats allowed to go outdoors, cats living with other infected cats and kittens are at great risk. An infected mother is also able to pass the virus through birth or nursing. A life span of an infected cat with FeLV is almost impossible to predict. The virus is almost always fatal.
These are insects that are too small to be seen with the naked eye. If left untreated, they can cause secondary infections that will also have to be treated. They are transferred by direct contact between your pet and another infected animal. Symptoms include” vigorous shaking of the head, rubbing of the affected ear, and thick black “crust” forming in the ear canal. If you think your pet might have ear mites, you should see your veterinarian to obtain a treatment medication. The pet should be isolated from other pets until treatment is finished.
The first thing to know is that there is not just one kitten vaccination schedule for all cats. That said, here is a generally accepted guideline of the kitten vaccination schedule.
| Kitten’s Age | Recommended Vaccinations | Optional Vaccinations |
|---|---|---|
| 6 - 8 weeks | FVRCP | None |
| 10 - 12 weeks | FVRCP | FeLV test, FeLV vaccine |
| 14 - 16 weeks | FVRCP | FeLV vaccine |
| 16 weeks | Rabies | None |
| Every year | FVRCP | None |
| 6 - 8 weeks | Fecal Sample – Recommend testing at the same time as FIRST vaccination. If positive for worms or parasites, recheck in one month. | None |
| Every 1- 3 years | Rabies (as required by law) | None |
Please note: The following vaccines are required for any hospitalization or boarding here at our facility: FVRCP, Rabies.
This procedure is generally performed at 5-6 months of age. Kitty must be up to date with vaccines (FVRCP, Rabies).
Pet Hazards
Many foods that are perfectly safe for humans to eat can be potentially harmful—even deadly—to pets. To be safe, keep these foods away from your pet:
- Chocolate
- Avocado
- Tea
- Onions and garlic
- Salt
- Macadamia nuts
- Coffee grounds
- Alcohol
- Any products containing xylitol (artificial sweetener)
- Fatty foods
- Yeast dough
- Raisins and grapes
Many cleaning products are safe to use around pets when used as directed. But, as with small children in the house, proper storage of these products is crucial to their safety. Avoid inappropriate contact by storing in a secure cabinet out of reach. Also be sure to maintain the original packaging or keep in a clearly labeled container. These include:
- Bleach and laundry detergents
- Insecticides/rodenticides
- Disinfectants
- Oven cleaners
- Drain cleaners
- Mothballs
- Liquid potpourri
In addition to the kitchen and laundry rooms, don't forget about other rooms and storage areas like the bathroom and garage. Some of the hidden hazards found here include:
- Gasoline
- Paint thinner and turpentine
- Antifreeze
- Window washing fluid
- Brake and transmission fluid
- Fertilizers
- De-icing salts
- Liquid soaps
Not only are these products dangerous for your pet to ingest, but many can irritate their eyes and skin.
- Aspirin, ibuprofen, acetaminophen
- Antidepressants
- Anti-cancer drugs
- Diet pills
- Vitamins
- Cold and flu medications
Many house and garden plants can sicken your pet if eaten. Even very small amounts of the toxin can cause harm. The symptoms can range from nausea and vomiting to outright poisoning by liver failure, seizures, and heart failure.
Just as you put choking hazards out of reach of any small children in the house, you must be aware of anything that a curious pet may want to chew or swallow. Look for any coins, small toys or figures, jewelry, loose nails or screws, or even bits of string or paper. Ingesting these items may cause choking or damage the digestive tract, resulting in the need for surgery or an emergency office visit.
As with small children, your pets have a risk of suffocation from chip bags, snack bags, pet food bags and plastic bags. In cases of asphyxiation, the bag vacuum seals around their face and they can't remove it. Death can occur in as little as 3-5 minutes. Sadly, many pet owners are home when this happens. It is imperative to keep all bags, including unopened snack and chip bags, away from your pets, and store them well away from curious noses.
While much of the fun of a holiday involves more activities, decorations, and parties, these also become challenges to keeping our pets safe. Discourage overfeeding—especially spoiling pets with table scraps and extra treats. This extravagance may lead to nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and even pancreatitis. At the very least avoid feeding your pet poultry bones, fatty foods, chocolate, and anything containing xylitol.
For most people, it's just not a holiday without the decorations. Just because pets live in the household you don't have to shelve your holiday spirit with the decorations. It's a matter of choosing wisely and making sure nothing is left on the floor or tables within their reach. Be especially cautious with tinsel, ribbons, and strings as they pose a risk of intestinal damage if swallowed.
At Christmas, take care to protect your pet from eating any poinsettia, mistletoe, or holly. And don't allow them to drink the water from a live tree stand. It could be contaminated from the preservatives or fertilizers in the tree, or simply stagnant and bacteria-laden.
What to do if you think your pet is poisoned
Don't wait! We recommend the ASPCA Poison Control Hotline at (888) 426-4435. This site is staffed by veterinary toxicology specialists. They charge a fee, but that call may save a trip to the emergency room.
Be ready to provide your pet's breed, age, weight, and describe any symptoms you observe. If possible, tell us what you think they ingested or were exposed to, and have packaging available if possible. If you call the hotline, be sure to get a case number for vets to reference if there are special instructions.
Cat-Proofing Your Home
Preparing your home for your new cat’s arrival is much more than buying a litter box and a few treats. Even the simplest household objects can cause danger to your new furry friend. To ensure your cat’s safety and health, you’ll want to cat-proof each and every room. Here are some tips on cat-proofing your home, room by room.
- Tie up or cut blind cords and loops. Cats can get injured or even strangle themselves in blind cords. Opt for window treatments without looped cords or cut the loop altogether to prevent problems.
- Keep candles up high. Curious cats shouldn’t be around flames. Flameless candles offer all the ambiance without being a hazard to whiskers and tails.
- Cover up electric cords. Chewing is a common cat hobby, so don’t let them nibble on electrical cords, cables, or phone chargers. The result can be worse than just shocking!
- Use essential oils and potpourri with care. Some essential oils—on their own or in liquid potpourri—can be toxic to your cat. Do your research before using around your cat.
- Watch out for poisonous plants and flowers. Lilies, sago palms, and cyclamen are just a few plants that can cause serious problems for your cat. Talk to your veterinarian before bringing any new flowers or plants home.
- Keep your nightstands clear. Keep medications, rubber bands, needle and thread, and other hazards off easy-to-reach nightstands.
- Hide mothballs in a drawer and off the floor. Mothballs are toxic for cats when eaten or sniffed.
- Power down your paper shredder. Be sure to keep kitty tails and paws far away from these sharp blades! Never leave your shredder on “auto” or “standby”—flick the switch to “off” or unplug when not in use.
- Close your cupboards and pantry doors. Stash cleaners, chemicals, trash, and both pet and people food behind closed doors—and consider putting child-proof locks on accessible cabinet doors.
- Keep your trash, recycling, and compost covered. Cats can suffocate in food bags, get sick from compost, and suffer from a lot of other problems when they get into what we throw away.
- Keep your stovetop covered. Your cat is in for a painful landing if they try to jump onto a stovetop in use, or even a recently turned off burner. Try to keep your cats from jumping up, and use burner covers on hot burners.
- Cover up your wastebaskets. Unlike humans, cats love dental floss and other string-like objects, all of which can cause serious digestive obstruction.
- Put away medications and supplements. The top cat poisoners are over-the-counter and prescription medications, as well as natural supplements.
- Keep the toilet seat lids down. Curious cats, especially kittens, could fall in. Be careful not to leave toilet bowl cleaners sit in the bowl, and don’t use automatic toilet bowl cleaners or cakes.
- Keep your clothes dryer closed (and always check inside before use). A toasty dryer seems like a comfy place to sleep for cats—but it can be fatal if it’s turned on with them inside.
- Hide garage chemicals. Automotive chemicals like motor oils, windshield fluid, and antifreeze can be harmful to your cat. Even a couple licks of antifreeze can kill, so stash it away.
- Put away rock salt and ice melters. Many salt-based ice melts can cause tummy troubles or burn sensitive paws. Use “pet-safer” ice melt products instead.
Why License Your Cat or Dog???
We’ve Got Two Good Reasons!
- If your pet should become lost, a license tag provides proper identification to assist in locating your pet.
- It’s the law, Milwaukee County and it’s municipalities require licensing of cats and dogs over six months of age. If adopted you have 30 days from the adoption date.
To make it more convenient for our clients, we now offer city of Milwaukee County licensing services. To obtain a city license, all you need to present at the time of purchase is a current Rabies Certificate. Please ask our receptionists for details!
Your Cat’s Social Life
Friendly, relaxed, confident cats are not necessarily born that way. To a large degree they can be altered by us. Genetics may have some influence on a cat’s unique individuality, but we also know that nurturing can often overcome some of nature’s strong influences. Everyone wants a cat that can be petted by friends, that can be a part of the family life, that likes to play, but not every cat owner knows that there is much that can be done to encourage the development of an out-going, confident personality. Cats that are talked to, cuddled, and played with, are going to be affectionate, lap-sitting companions. Cats that are ignored and seldom handled become aloof and independent, frightened of many things.
The notion that cats are loners has persisted throughout the centuries. Perhaps this is due to the fact that cats are solitary predators, unlike dogs who are pack hunters. In the wild the dog’s survival depends on his ability and willingness to work as a member of a team to run down prey. The cat, on the other hand, doesn’t have to associate with others to obtain a meal. In fact, the cat’s method of hunting which involves stalking, hide-and-wait, and pounce cannot be successfully practiced in a group. However, when cats are provided with ample food and shelter and there is no need to compete with other cats for the basic necessities of life, they have proven to be highly social animals. Their sociability is often overlooked by humans because the cat’s greetings and displays of affection are so unnoticeable and much different than a dog. A nose touch, a slow eye blink, a tilt of the tail, is not nearly as obvious as the well understood face-lick of the dog, but it is just as sincere and deliberate, and they are happy to see you.
- By having two or more cats you are able to enjoy the true social nature of cats as a species. They naturally live in small groups called colonies. Cats are solitary hunters, but not a solitary species.
- Cats that have a playmate tend to be more socially well adjusted. They also tend to have less behavior problems related to social skills such as: predatory aggression (biting of hands and other appendages), scratching, hissing, hiding and overall shyness.
- Only cats are typically poorly socialized and much more aggressive to most anyone in their life. We commonly refer to these cats as having “only child syndrome” or “Tarzan”; they do not know what to do with another cat when faced with it years later.
- Cats need mental stimulation throughout the day, just like humans. Studies have shown that animals that live alone have smaller brains than their streetwise counterparts.
- In Switzerland, an anti-cruelty law was passed that requires people that are adopting or buying a dog or cat to acquire two since it is the nature of the animal to have company of its own kind.
- Cats that have a playmate to keep them active will have less of a tendency to be overweight and suffer related health issues.
- Destructive behaviors due to boredom and attention seeking are less common when they have a buddy. This means less scratching on furniture, getting into cabinets, chewing on wires, etc.
- When you travel or are gone at work all day they will have each other for company. Cats take comfort in simply the presence of another feline, they do not have to sleep together and groom each other to enjoy knowing one another are there.
- It is more common for people to return an adopted cat due to behavior problems when only one was adopted versus two.
- Your cat will likely remain more youthful and playful well into their senior years with the benefit of a companion.
- The workload to care for two cats versus one is virtually the same. The benefit of not having to be the sole provider of entertainment also makes two even easier than one!
- You do not need to have more space to have a second cat.
- Because………Two is better than one! For the humans, for the cats and for the pet overpopulation crisis!
When electing a feline companion for your resident cat, keep your cat’s personality & activity level in mind. Consider the following guidelines when choosing your next family member. Remember that they are only guidelines & that there are occasional exceptions to the rules.
- If you have an adult female who has been an “only” cat for some time, it is best to get a younger female. Males can over-power & frighten females. Make kittens, while more easily dominated by the female, still grow up to be rambunctious teenagers that engage in a style of play that involves pounce & wrestle.
- If a young, active male is your family pet, he would probably enjoy having another male buddy who shares his enthusiasm for vigorous play.
- A laid-back, older, castrated male cat may enjoy “mothering” a kitten (male or female). They usually make better mother substitutes than spayed females.
- Males tend to bond with each other unless both have dominant personalities. A dominant cat engages in a lot of rubbing, scent marking, resting in high places or doorways, & shows little or no fear.
1. Have your cat spayed or neutered at six months of age. Sexually mature, intact cats will frequently use urine and fecal marking to indicate their territory. Neutering will correct 90% of elimination problems.
2. There should be one litter box per cat in the household, plus one additional litter box. Extra litter boxes are necessary because some cats like to defecate in one and urinate in another. Others will not use a box that has already been soiled or used by another cat.
3. Clean the litter boxes DAILY. The single most common reason for a cat’s refusal to use a litter box is because the box is dirty. Non-clumping litter should be scooped daily. The litter box should be emptied and washed every other day. Clumping litter should also be scooped daily and the litter boxes washed when soiled.
4. Choose a litter that appeals to the cat. Most cats prefer the texture of the sand-like scooping litters. Be sure to choose a brand that clumps into a firm ball, making scooping easier and cleaner (Everclean HD is excellent*). As a health precaution for younger kittens that might be prone to ingest the litter, use a non-clumping litter until the kitten is four months old.
5. NEVER use a scented litter. Perfumed, chemical scents repel cats. When you wash the litter box, use a mild dishwashing liquid. Do not use harsh chemicals that will leave an odor.
6. Do not use litter box liners – they can be irritating to some cats. In addition, covered or hooded litter boxes may be offensive to some cats. Be sure the litter box is not too small for your cat. The minimum size for a litter box is 22” x 16.”
7. Place litter boxes in quiet, private places that are easily accessible to the cat. The box should be in a location where it will not be disturbed by children or ambushed by other pets. Noisy areas near washing machines, furnaces or under stairs may frighten the cat away from the box. A house with several stories should have a litter box on each floor. NEVER place litter boxes near food or water dishes.
8. While kittens have an innate predisposition to use loose material as their litter, they may also choose other locations. You should limit their territory until they learn that the litter box is the only acceptable place for elimination. Praise and rewards will speed up the learning process. Like small children, they should not be expected to travel very far to find their toilet areas.
9. When introducing a new cat into the home, confine the cat to one room with its litter box, bed, food and water until the cat has used the litter box several times and shows an interest in exploring the rest of the house.
10. Help your cat feel comfortable in his new home and territory. Play games with him, give him a massage, talk to him frequently. Give him positive and affectionate attention. A confident, secure, contented and relaxed cat does not need to relieve anxiety and stress by such extreme measures as urinating or fecal marking.
1. Have your cat examined by a veterinarian for a physical problem. Be sure to mention kitty’s urination and defecation habits. If a cat’s elimination is painful, it may associate the litter box with pain and choose to eliminate elsewhere. When the cat is healthy again, a careful reintroduction to the box will be necessary.
2. Carefully check the 10 steps for preventing litter box problems. Are you following all of them? Perhaps the solution is as easy as adding more litter boxes, cleaning more frequently or changing the brand of litter. Try to accommodate your cat’s preferences for location and litter material whenever possible.
3. Never punish the cat for eliminating outside of its litter box. House-soiling typically occurs when the litter box, its contents or its location is offensive to the cat. However, this problem may also present itself when the cat is stressed by the environment. HOUSE-SOILING IS NEVER DONE TO SPITE THE OWNER.
4. If aversion to the litter box can be ruled out, consider that the problem could be anxiety-related. Has there been a change in the household? Any intrusion on the cat’s territory, whether human, animal or even a new piece of furniture, can cause a cat to feel threatened, insecure and stressed. This results in his need to remind himself and the world of his territory. Territorial marking is usually accomplished by spraying urine on vertical surfaces or, less frequently, by squatting and urination or defecated on horizontal surfaces. The more cats in the household, the more likely it is that one or more of them will spray.
5. Try to relieve or eliminate the source of the cat’s anxiety. For example, pull the drapes so that the cat cannot view the antics of the tom cat next door. If the environmental cause that triggers the territorial behavior cannot be identified or eliminated, consult with an experienced feline behavior counselor.
6. What ever the cause for the inappropriate elimination, a brief confinement period may be necessary in order to clean the soiled areas, place deterrents in these spots and purchase new litter boxes or new litter. The confinement room should be a comfortable room and should contain two litter boxes, fresh food and water, a bed and toys. Remember not to place the litter boxers near the food and water. Visit the cat regularly, but do not let him out until the home environment has been cleaned and the litter box situation improved. Please note that extended periods of confinement may be detrimental to the retaining process. When the cat is let out, it is important to PRAISE APPROPRIATE BEHAVIOR.
7. In order to thoroughly clean the urine-soaked areas, a black light may be used to identify the problem spots and a strong enzymatic cleaner should be used to saturate and neutralize them. The Equalizer (available through veterinary clinics) and Zap-A-Spot have proven to be highly effective. To repel the cat from previously soiled areas, cover them with a vinyl carpet runner (upside down), a solid air freshener (preferably in a citrus scent) or bowls of dry cat food. Solving house-soiling problems is possible with patience, persistence and a systematic plan for retraining. If you would like help determining the cause or treatment for an inappropriate elimination problem, give us a call.
