Crate:

A puppy must be crated whenever members of the household are unable to actively supervise, sleeping, etc. This will force your puppy to hold on to ensure a success outside at a later time. If your puppy is soiling his crate, the likelihood is that the crate is too large and he has the ability to use a part of the crate as a toilet. Far too many potentially good pets are misunderstood, unfairly punished, isolated, abused, or simply “gotten rid of” by otherwise kind & well-meaning owners who are unable to prevent, control, or live with the common “problem” behavior of puppies & young adult dogs. The correct use of a dog crate could give many of these innocent animals the chance they need & deserve to spend their lives as the appreciated pet of a satisfied owner.

But, you are not a dog!

As a dog sees it: I love having a room/house of my very own, it’s my own private special place, my “security blanket,” & the closed door doesn’t bother me. If your dog could talk, this is how he might well express his reaction to using the crate. He would tell you that the crate helps to satisfy the “den instinct” inherited from his den dwelling ancestors and relatives, & that he is not afraid or frustrated when closed in. He would further admit that he is actually much happier & more secure having his life controlled and structured by a human being and would far rather be prevented from causing trouble than be punished for it later. So, to you it may be a “cage” – to him it’s a “home.”

What kind of crate is best?

The most practical dog crate for use by the pet owner is the collapsible wire mesh type, available in a wide variety of sizes. Light-weight and easily handled, it allows total ventilation & permits the dog to see everything going on around him. A wooden, metal, or fiberglass/plastic airline crate will serve the purpose, but it restricts air & vision, is less convenient to handle & transport, & has limited sizes.

What size should a crate be?

A create should always be large enough to permit any age dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped & to sit up without hitting his head on the top. While the adult size dog if a purebred puppy is easy to predict, that of a mixed breed must be estimated based on the general breed/body type & puppy size at a given age. It is always better to use a crate that is a little too large than one a little too small. For a puppy, measure the distance from the tip of the nose to the base (not tip) of the tail & add 12 inches for anticipated rapid growth. The height & width are properly proportioned to the length. If a small crate is unavailable for temporary use, reduce the space of an adult size one (width can serve as length if the crate is large enough) with a reversed carton or a removable/movable partition made of wire, wood, or Masonite. Remember that a crate too large for a young puppy defeats the purpose of providing security & promoting bowel control, so the space should be limited in the beginning.

Why use a crate?

A dog crate, correctly and humanely used can have many advantages for both you and your pet. With the help of the crate you can:

• Enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed & that he is comfortable, protected, & not developing any bad habits.
• Housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination, & to prevent accidents at night or when left alone.
• Effectively confine your dog at times when he may be underfoot (meals, family activities), around unwelcome guests (workmen, etc…), over excited, & bothered by too much confusion, too many children, or ill.
• Travel with your dog without the risk of the driver being dangerously distracted or the dog getting loose & hopelessly lost, & with the assurance that he can easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as he has his familiar “security blanket” around.

How to use it

If possible, buy, borrow, or rent a crate of adequate size. Place it in a location where the dog will definitely feel part of the human family (though still has some privacy). Secure the door open so that it can’t unexpectedly shut & frighten him & do not out in any bedding. Encourage the dog to investigate this new object thoroughly, luring him inside by tossing “special” tidbits (cheese, liver, hot dog, toys, etc…) into the far end then letting him turn & come back out. Praise him enthusiastically throughout all of this. When he begins to enter the crate confidently, start coaxing him to lie down & relax, still using food if necessary. Continue this pattern for several days encouraging him to use the crate as much as possible & shutting the door briefly while you sit beside him or there are people visible &/or audible nearby. Do not hesitate, however, to use a little resistance with consistent firmness & authority so that the dog is clearly aware of the behavior you desire. As soon as you feel confident that the dog will remain quietly in the closed crate (which could be from the beginning), you may safely leave him alone. Give him a chew toy or a safe bone to absorb his attention & be sure that he has nothing around his neck that could get caught on the cage. If you are still uncertain or anxious, leave him at first for only a short time (1 to 1 ½ hours) until he has proved that he will not resist the confinement. Once he has accepted the crate as his bed & own “special place,” your pet can stop being a problem & will start being a pleasure. In due time it may even be possible to wean him gradually off the crate without his resuming any problem behavior.

Schedule:

Provide your puppy with a set schedule for eating and for going outside. If away for longer than four hours, ask another party come to the house to take your puppy outside. Optimally, there is always someone at home during the housetraining period. Below is a typical puppy potty schedule:

1. First thing in the morning.
2. A few minutes after each meal. This is often when puppies will have a bowel movement.
3. Every hour on the hour. Take your puppy outside on leash for five minutes in a small area. Always return to the same spot so he begins to associate the area with its purpose. Don’t interact with your puppy. When he has gone potty, lavish him with a special treat used only during potty training and give him lots of praise. Have a play period you’re your puppy is finished. If nothing happens after five minutes, bring your puppy back into the house and crate him or place him in a confinement area for another 30 minutes, then try again. If your puppy eliminate this time, he may have a free period in the kitchen or confinement area, or, better yet, a nice walk. This acts as an added bonus for performing.
4. During the night - young puppies may need to go out at least once during the night. If your puppy doesn’t eliminate on any particular outing, try again an hour later.

Treats:

Most importantly, praise and reward your puppy every time he goes potty in the right spot. Using a special treat exclusively for the potty training process will encourage him to eliminate outside. Potty Time should be Party Time for your puppy every time he is successful.

Good Observing Skills:

Your puppy will give off signals that he needs to eliminate. It’s essential to learn what these are to prevent mistakes. Common behaviors include circling, restlessness and sniffing. Whenever these actions are noticed, take your puppy outside.

Patience:

Most puppies will have accidents, especially in the beginning of house training. If your puppy is caught beginning to eliminate inside the house, interrupt him by saying “Ah! Ah! Let’s go outside!” at the start of any mistakes indoors. This should prevent your puppy from finishing. Urgently say "outside" and then place your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Stay outside five minutes and praise and treat if he finishes eliminating. If not, bring your puppy back inside and either supervise or crate him for another try later. If your puppy has an accident in the house or in the crate and it wasn’t witnessed, it’s futile and even detrimental to punish him after the fact. Simply clean up the spot and then apply a commercial odor neutralizer.

Below is a list of a FEW foods we recommend for dogs and cats. The list is in alphabetical order, and there are many other excellent foods to choose from at your local pet store. Avoid food purchased at grocery stores, larger retailers, and discount stores.

The above foods are considered low-residue foods. This means that these foods contain less filler than most brands. Therefore, you will need to feed a smaller amount of these foods to your pet (compared to store brands) while still maintaining optimum weight and health. Although these foods appear to be more expensive than grocery store brands, feeding a smaller portion of food results in having to buy food less often, which usually results in no greater expense over time. Ultimately, your pet will be provided with optimum nutrition, which results in better health and longer life. The above brands can be purchased at most major pet retailers. Purchasing your food from a grocery store or large retailer is not recommended.

If your pet needs a special diet for certain conditions (kidney or liver disease, diabetes, allergies, etc…), please see one of our veterinarians for appropriate recommendations.

Example:

TWO 20 pound bags of brand X = 1 month of feeding = $40 dollars

Vs.

ONE 20 pound bag of premium food = 1 month of feeding = $40 dollars = better health

REMEMBER: It is much better to feed your pet a measured amount of food twice daily than to leave the bowl full of food. Your pet’s weight will be properly maintained, keeping your pet healthy. Once this schedule is achieved, it will be very easy to monitor your pet’s food consumption and ultimately, his or her overall health. If you would like a FREE measuring cup for your pet’s diet, please let us know.

Whether you already have a dog and are considering getting a cat, or vice versa, it is very important to think about their first introduction. By letting a loose cat and an off-leash dog meet each other in an open room for the first time, you are probably setting up both animals to fail. Instead, plan ahead and take your time.

MATCHING CATS AND DOGS

• If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.
• If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.
• If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (in fear or play).
• If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.
• If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.

THE INTRODUCTION PROCESS

Regardless of whether you are getting a new cat or a new dog, the first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Here are four steps that can help you ensure a successful meeting:

STEP 1: CHOOSE THE PROPER LOCATION FOR THE FIRST MEETING

• Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should not take your cat to meet him at a shelter, or other establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.
• Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do not take your dog into a shelter and expose him to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.

STEP 2: SEPARATE THE ANIMALS

• Across a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.
• Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if he can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.
• If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.
• When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.
• Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.

STEP 3: MAKE LEASHED INTRODUCTIONS

• Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.
• Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally.
• If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.
• Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.
• When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

STEP 4: ALLOW UNSUPERVISED INTERACTIONS

• Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.

TRAINING TIP:

If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract him and get him to look away with treats, a happy voice or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If he takes it, repeat this process until he is no longer focused on the cat or door.

WARNING SIGNS

• If the dog remains overly focused, does not take his eyes off the cat or the door, completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat moves, this is probably a dangerous match. If you are looking for a dog for your resident cat, try another dog. If this is your dog, you should probably not get him a cat.
• If at any time the dog lunges toward, growls, snaps at or shows any aggression toward a calm, quiet, still cat, this match will probably not work out. The same holds true if a cat attacks a calm, quiet dog. If you are committed to make the relationship work, you will probably need a professional at this point.
• If you are looking for a cat for your dog, and your dog displays questionable behavior around a cat who is growling, hissing and swatting, try again with another, calmer cat. If he continues to display questionable behavior around multiple cats, it is likely he should not live with cats.
• If it is your cat who is growling, hissing or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on another day. You might also need to try a different dog. A cat who continually hisses and growls at all types of dogs will likely not want to live with dogs. Your cat may tolerate a dog, but she probably won’t be happy — which is an unfair situation for her.
• If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family members, she is not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a professional animal behaviorist for advice.

What is meant by ovariohysterectomy or spaying?
An ovariohysterectomy (spay) is the surgical removal of the female reproductive organs. The operation removes the two ovaries, the uterine horns and the body of the uterus.

What are the indications for performing a spay?
This operation is indicated to avoid heat (estrus) cycles, prevent pregnancy, remove diseased or cancerous female reproductive organs and markedly decrease the risk of acquired diseases of the female reproductive system. The spay operation essentially removes the possibility of a severe infection of the uterus (pyometra). There is also evidence that spaying a dog at an early age markedly reduces the future risk of developing mammary (breast) cancer.

What preoperative examinations or tests are needed before a spay?
Preoperative tests depend in part on the age and general health of the dog. In young dogs, minimal tests are needed provided the pet has been vaccinated, dewormed and proven healthy based on physical examination. Often simple blood tests, such as a packed cell volume or blood count, can be done prior to anesthesia. In older dogs, it would be common to perform a routine blood count and chemistry profile prior to anesthesia. These recommendations vary on a case-by-case basis and depend on the overall health of the dog.

How Is the Ovariohysterectomy (Spay) Operation Done?
Following anesthesia, the dog is placed on a surgical table, lying on her back. The hair is clipped over the middle of the abdomen and the skin is scrubbed with surgical soap to disinfect the area. A sterile drape is placed over the surgical site. A scalpel is used to incise the skin at the middle of the abdomen, and then the abdominal cavity is opened. The organs of the female reproductive tract are identified and the major blood vessels supplying the ovaries and the uterus are ligated (tied off). This must be done before these organs can be removed. Sutures (stitches) that dissolve over time are used to tie off the blood vessels and also to close the uterus above the cervix. Sometime, surgical staples are used in place of sutures. The abdominal incision is then closed with one or two layers of sutures (stitches). The outer layer of skin is closed with skin glue, sutures, or surgical staples; these sutures and staples need to be removed in about 10 to 14 days.

How long does the spay take to perform?
The procedure takes about 45 minutes to an hour to perform in most cases, including the needed time for preparation and anesthesia. In older or large-breed dogs the procedure can take longer and may require two surgeons.
What are the risks and complications of a spay operation?
The overall risk of this surgery in a healthy young dog is very low. While there are no published statistics, the risk of death is probably less than 1 in 500. The major risks are those of general anesthesia, bleeding (hemorrhage), postoperative infection and wound breakdown (dehiscence) over the incision. Overall complication rate is low, but serious complications can result in death or the need for additional surgery.

What is the typical postoperative aftercare for a spay?
Postoperative medication should be given to relieve pain, which is judged in most cases to be mild to moderate and can be effectively eliminated with safe and effective pain medicines. Generally young dogs are acting normally within 24 to 48 hours and are released one or two days after surgery. It is difficult to determine that they just completed surgery. The home care requires reduced activity until the stitches are removed in 10 to 14 days. The incision line should be inspected daily for signs of redness, discharge, swelling or pain. The typical stay is one day.

What is meant by castration or neutering?
A castration (neuter) is the surgical removal of the male reproductive organs. The operation removes the two testicles.

Why should I have my dog neutered?
This operation is indicated to prevent pregnancy, remove diseased or cancerous testicles, reduce male behavior such as urine marking, territorial aggression and roaming, and markedly decrease the risk of acquired diseases of the male reproductive system. The neuter operation essentially removes the possibility of testicular cancer and reduces the risk of prostatic enlargement.

What preoperative examinations or tests are needed?
Preoperative tests depend in part on the age and general health of the pet. In young dogs, minimal tests are recommended provided the pet has been vaccinated, dewormed, and proven healthy based on clinical examination.  In older animals, it is common to perform a routine blood count and chemistry profile prior to anesthesia. These recommendations vary on a case-by-case basis and depend on the overall health of the pet.

How Is the Operation Done?
Following anesthesia, the pet is placed on a surgical table, lying on his back. The hair just in front of the scrotum (the skin pouch containing the testicles) is clipped and the skin is scrubbed with surgical soap to disinfect the area. A sterile drape is placed over the surgical site. Your veterinarian uses a scalpel to incise the skin just in front of the testicles. The testicles are identified and the major blood vessels and vas deferens are ligated (tied off). This must be done before these organs can be removed. Sutures (stitches) that dissolve over time are used to tie off the blood vessels. The incision is then closed with one or two layers of self-dissolving sutures (stitches). The outer layer of skin is closed with skin glue, sutures, or surgical staples; the sutures and staples need to be removed in about 10 to 14 days.

How long does the operation take to perform?
The procedure takes about 20 minutes to 45 minutes to perform in most cases, including the needed time for preparation and anesthesia. In older or large-breed dogs the procedure can take longer.

What are the risks and complications of a neuter?
The overall risk of this surgery in a healthy young pet is very low. While there are no published statistics, the risk of death is probably less than 1 in 500. The major risks are those of general anesthesia, bleeding (hemorrhage), post-operative infection, and wound breakdown (dehiscence) over the incision. Overall complication rate is low, but serious complications can result in death or the need for additional surgery.

What is the typical post-operative care?
Post-operative medication should be given to relieve pain, which is judged in most cases to be mild to moderate and can be effectively eliminated with safe and effective pain medicines. Generally young dogs begin to act normal within 24 to 48 hours and are released the same day or the day following surgery, and it is difficult to determine that they just completed surgery. The home care requires reduced activity until the stitches are removed in 10 to 14 days. You should inspect the incision line daily for signs of redness, discharge, swelling, or pain, and prevent your pet from licking the incision. The typical stay is one day.

Imagine what your teeth would feel like after not brushing them for one week, let alone one year or more. Dental disease is the most common disease of pets today.

• Over 85% of pets over age 4 have some form of dental disease.
• Brushing your pet’s teeth regularly can increase their lifespan by 3 years.
• Dental disease has been directly linked to liver, kidney, and heart disease.
• Dental disease, including gingivitis (inflamed gums) and abscessed or fractured teeth are painful for your pet. Your pet may not show pain until the problem is severe.
• The main cause of halitosis (bad breath) in dogs and cats is dental disease.

We Recommend:

• An oral exam as part of your pet’s yearly physical.
• Daily brushing (we can show you how to do this).
• Starting when the doctor recommends, annual dental prophylaxis (teeth cleaning) under general anesthesia. (see risks of anesthesia)
• We offer a variety of CET oral products designed and proven to aid with home dental care and dental health.

Please feel free to ask us what products might be helpful for you and your pet.

Grooming for Dogs

All grooming procedures are best introduced when your puppy is young so it learns to tolerate being handled. Special attention should be paid to the ears, feet, and eyes so that you and your veterinarian can easily examine these areas.

Brushing your dog’s haircoat often helps control shedding and improve skin condition. Some breeds require frequent grooming by a professional to keep the haircoat neat and clean. Please ask your veterinarian if your dog’s coat would require this. If your dog is difficult to groom please ask us about grooming procedures we have available for difficult to handle patients.

Your dog may be bathed as frequently as every two weeks with a mild grooming shampoo. We recommend Aloe & Oatmeal or a Universal Shampoo as excellent shampoos for regular bathing.

Ear cleaning can be done on a weekly basis with recommended products and techniques. Please ask your veterinarian for a demonstration of how to clean your dog’s ears.

Nails should be trimmed every 6-8 weeks. Frequent trimming of the nails can prevent the quick from lengthening. A long quick makes it more difficult to trim the nails back to a normal length.

Why License Your Cat or Dog???

We’ve Got Two Good Reasons?

• If your pet should become lost, a license tag provides proper identification to assist in locating your pet.
• It’s the law, Milwaukee County and it’s municipalities require licensing of cats and dogs over six months of age. If adopted you have 30 days from the adoption date.

To make it more convenient for our clients, we now offer city of Milwaukee County licensing services. To obtain a city license, all you need to present at the time of purchase is a current Rabies Certificate. Please ask our receptionists for details!